T’ang Court: Cloud Nine

After winning three-Michelin-stars for the ninth consecutive time, T’ang Court can rightfully claim to be one of the world’s finest Cantonese restaurants. Executive chef Wong Chi Fai tells Prestige how they’ve done it.

In the 2024 Michelin Guide to Hong Kong and Macau, only two Cantonese restaurants hold its three-Michelin-star rating; in fact, at the moment only four such restaurants in the world can boast the coveted distinction. The prestigious quartet includes The Langham hotel’s long- established T’ang Court, that bastion of Hong Kong culinary tradition whose signature dishes include baked stuffed crab shell with crab meat, onion and cream sauce; stir-fried lobster with spring onion, red onion and shallots; Cantonese-style barbecued pork; and myriad exquisite dim sum.

Helmed by executive chef Wong Chi Fai, T’ang Court has now held its three Michelin stars for nine consecutive years, the longest-running streak of any local Cantonese restaurant currently holding the accolade. It’s an incredible achievement for Wong, who took over the reins after former master chef Kwong Wai Keung retired two years ago, but it’s one that’s been a long time coming.

“It’s been more than 24 years already,” says Wong, who joined T’ang Court 24 years ago. “I’ve stayed here all these years because chef Kwong is someone who always stayed genuine and true to the traditions of Cantonese cuisine, which perfectly aligned with my own cooking philosophies. I really admire his dedication to the craft, his impeccable attention to detail and his perfectionist approach, so I worked very hard to keep learning from him and carry on that kind of standard and attitude towards Cantonese cuisine as well.

“When I first joined, I was only a junior chef, but I knew I had to learn about every part of the kitchen if I were to succeed. I moved around all the different stations and posts and tried to educate myself on all the different aspects of the kitchen, including what it takes for a restaurant to attain – and retain – three Michelin stars. I must admit, the journey was very tough, but once I managed to achieve those targets I set for myself, all the sacrifices I made along the way felt even more worthwhile.”

As he’d honed his skills for two and a half decades at one of Hong Kong’s most decorated restaurants and being a crucial part of the team that contributed to its enduring success, you might think it natural for the chef to follow in his master’s footsteps. But for Wong – many of whose colleagues also share a similar longevity – it was far from what he envisioned for himself when he first entered the industry.

“At the time, I never imagined I’d get where I am today,” he says, laughing. “When I got into the industry, the Michelin Guide didn’t even exist in Hong Kong, and I’d never heard of it! I worked at the steaming station for a while, and the baking station as well, and whenever customers would tell me the food I made was good, I felt so happy. That’s what really kept me going during those early years, and it was my only goal.”

Like many others who enjoy cooking, whether in a professional kitchen or just the comfort of their home, he began his journey simply out of his love for eating. “I was 13, maybe 14, when I first dipped my toes into the culinary world,” Wong, who’s now in his 40s, recounts. “I was on my summer break from school and didn’t know what to do with my time. All I loved doing was eating, and I’d eat my way around Hong Kong, so I figured why not give the kitchen a try? That summer, I took on a temporary apprenticeship at a local restaurant for three months, and as it turned out I absolutely adored it. I ate as I cooked, and it was such a rewarding experience that I ended up going back into the Business after I graduated from middle school, when I was around 16.”

From there, Wong worked his way up at numerous Chinese restaurants until he reached T’ang Court, where his knowledge of Cantonese culinary traditions expanded considerably. “There wasn’t any particular reason why I chose Cantonese food to be honest,” Wong says. “Back in my day, the only two choices we had were Western cuisine and Chinese cuisine, and I just happen to prefer eating Cantonese food, so that’s why I ended up working in this field. It’s all because of what I love to eat.”

Hong Kong’s dining scene has evolved leaps and bounds since those early days Wong mentions, but while some things have inevitably changed over the years, the chef holds steadfast in his principles for the restaurant. “I don’t think our cooking philosophies have changed at all at T’ang Court over the past three decades,” he tells me with a clear sense of pride. “We still adhere to those very same beliefs and principles when it comes to serving Cantonese cuisine at the highest standard. Tradition is everything to us, and it’s all about heavy flames and rapid stir-frying. We try to achieve the least amount of interference with the ingredients and the shortest amount of cooking time to produce the freshest yet most flavourful dishes.

“For example, for our stir-fried lobster, we come in early in the morning to prepare and chop all the ingredients we need – except the lobster, because it’s not something you can slaughter ahead of time. Once the lobster is dead, the quality of its meat begins to deteriorate, so we keep them alive until a customer places an order. From there, we’ll process the lobster in just two minutes, combine all the other ingredients and cook it over a high flame. Within a minute or two, the dish needs to be ready to be served to the guest. Extensive preparation and quick execution form the essence of what we do. These are the principles we’ve held on to for 25 years and we continue to follow them today.”

Whatever your views on tradition versus innovation, what T’ang Court represents deservedly has its place within the top echelons of gAstronomy. 2023 marked the first year the restaurant earned its three Michelin stars under its new chef ’s leadership, and as it’s now held on to the accolade for nine years straight it can surely claim to be one of the world’s most celebrated Cantonese restaurants.

“I’m honoured to have achieved all this, but even with this amount of success, we’re not going to just be satisfied and slow down or relax,” Wong tells me. “We’ll continue to follow our principles and provide the best food and service we can to our customers, whether new or regular. Every time they come here, I want them to leave feeling full, satisfied and happy. Their joy, not the accolades, is my top priority.”

And what of the pressure that comes with his role, especially as the number of consecutive years they’ve retained three stars continue to grow? “If you’re always thinking about when you’ll lose your third star, then you’ll definitely lose it,” Wong says. “The key is to continue being yourself and producing the best quality that you can. Giving yourself so much pressure over how many stars you have or whether you can retain them will only make greatness even more difficult to achieve, and it’s not Healthy mentally either. The more stressed you are, the more mistakes you’ll make. Approach your work with a sense of calmness and perform to the best of your ability – that’s all I’m looking to do, and that’s enough for me.”