Entertainment

Authentic Costume Design Takes Form in the Heeramandi Mughal Jewellery Collection

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5m ago

Jun 13, 2024 / 9834 Views

Evan Walker

Historical fidelity hits home in the Heeramandi Mughal jewellery collection as featured on Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar. On this set, aspirational accuracy has no place, giving way to full, unabashed, and unapologetic authenticity. Recently released on Netflix, the epic limited series has already made waves across the globe, enthralling audiences with its breathtaking set design, compelling screenplay, historic inspirations, and prodigious costuming. Where Heeramandi’s exquisite collection of Mughal jewellery is concerned, all that glitters is, indeed, gold.

When Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar first premiered on Netflix on May 1, it was to high expectations from fans of his work. Having helmed critically acclaimed Bollywood flicks Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam and Devdas, Bhansali’s reputation precedes him in the realm of dramatic productions, and fans were eager to see what he would serve next.

With its engaging premise of love, loss, and betrayal all set in the red-light district of Lahore’s Heera Mandi, the Netflix series certainly showed promise, as well as all the hallmarks of a memorable watch with breathtaking visuals and stellar performances.

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While audiences remain divided on the show’s narratives and sometimes convoluted storylines, Bhansali’s dedication to his craft has resulted in a visually striking production that wants for nothing else. In its extraordinary commitment to the portrayal of beauty, it bears striking resemblance to Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette (2006).

However, while Coppola’s production marries the ethereal lightness of pastel, feathers, and lace with gilded splendour, Bhansali’s Heeramandi proffers a grittier aesthetic, yet one that is no less determined to succeed in highlighting the craft and culture of British Raj India.

Bhansali’s flair for the dramatic suffuses the show’s ornate set

With a budget of INR 200 crore (approx. USD 24 million), it bears noting that Bhansali had much providence to play with in terms of aesthetics and world building. The opulence and splendour take little time to emerge on-screen, with Bhansali’s iNFLuence palpable a mere five minutes in.

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The scenes are luxuriously staged, reflecting the grandeur of the era and the wealth that marks the Shahi Mahal, home to Mallikajaan, self-styled Queen of Heera Mandi. Born of Bhansali’s own mind and brought to life in Mumbai’s Film City, the set took 700 craftsmen, seven months, and 60,000 wooden planks and metal frames to complete. The end result: A breathtakingly resplendent backdrop that pays loving homage to Bhansali’s renowned love of drama and splendour, as well as his unequivocal attention to detail.

That same attention to detail extends beyond the set, adorning the show’s stars in couture worthy of kings and courtesans alike. While the dazzling costumes are designed by renowned bridal designers Rimple-Harpreet Narula Couture, it is Heeramandi’s exquisite collection of Mughal jewellery that truly captures the imagination, a glittering beacon of profusion and luxury that recalls the splendour, culture, and crafts of the era.

Glittering and gilded: Heeramandi shines the spotlight on Mughal jewellery with an exquisite collection

To capture the affluence of Heera Mandi’s most powerful figures, Bhansali commissioned the Moghul jewellery mavens of Shri Paramani Jewels to create the magnificent custom collection necessitated for storyline and aesthetic purposes. With centuries of knowledge in the ancient art of crafting fine jewellery, the family-run business, which was founded in 1789, has long served as the golden standard for craftsmanship and design.

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Vinay and Anshu Gupta, whose work shines with immeasurable gleam onscreen in Bhansali’s epic, met the opportunity to design for Heeramandi with great joy and pleasure. Cognisant of the central role their jewels would play in the show, the duo, who had previously worked with the iconic director on Bajirao Mastani (2015), rose magnificently to the challenge.

Speaking to Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, the Guptas shared how they leapt at the opportunity to return to their roots, eager to explore the rich fabric of their family heritage. “The first thing that went through our minds is that we have something that will allow us to go back to our roots. A journey back through 200 years of legacy, family treasures and jewellery-making traditions of our forefathers who were treasurers of the Mughals,” Vinay said.

heeramandi jewellery collection — Sonakshi Sinha serves up a stellar portrayal of Rehana, the former chief courtesan of Shahi Mahal; she also portrays Rehana’s daughter Fareedan, chief courtesan of Khwabgah. (Image: Netflix)

Owing to Bhansali’s vision, much research was required before work could officially begin on the crafting. Speaking on the process adopted by the team, Vinay shared that it first began with discussions on the basic principles of design and heritage, followed by a deep dive into the work of their ancestors, family jewels, treasures, and even the literature of the time.

“The process was not only driven by design but also understanding history, going back into the era, and understanding each character in play,” He said, validating the importance of authenticity. “In Heeramandi, even the sets have jewels, and the jewels are used as smaller elements like gifts in the series, every detail was panned out. Thus, when designing the pieces, every nuance was looked at, and the craftsmanship was aimed to achieve the intricacy of jewellery-making in that era.”

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To that end, the design team spent hours with Bhansali, diving into the jewellery and how the pieces needed to reflect the existence and evolution of the characters for which they were made. “We looked at their age, their storyline, and their personality in the series. Each piece was crafted in keeping with each character.”

Through it all, Bhansali’s personal touch served to ground the process, his creative vision an unwavering compass towards authenticity. “He also guided us on the selection and styling, and just making sure everything was done in the most authentic manner,” Vinay added.

The crafting of the jewellery spanned three long years. In this time, the artisans of Shri Paramani Jewels took themselves to task, designing and producing over 10,000 pieces of Mughal jewellery weighing over 300 kg. The process, which Vinay described as a ‘magnanimous task’, took place in three rooms filled with glittering specimens, with the team working laboriously around the clock to revive the craft of their forefathers from over two centuries ago.

Production of the pieces adhered to crafting practices that aligned with the portrayed era in Heeramandi, with artisans meticulously shaping metals like gold and silver to form intricate designs and patterns. “The craftsmanship for the pieces was actually aimed to be as close to the original timeline that would have been in that era. Our skilled artisans used traditional techniques such as filigree work, engraving, enamelling, and setting gemstones,” Vinay shared.

A vivid portrayal of wealth and opulence

Spotlighting the artistry and attention to detail that surrounds Mughal jewellery, the resultant collection bears carefully selected gemstones, including diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls, that accurately reflect the wealth and opulence of the Mughal royals. “Mughal jewellery is known for its intricate designs, exquisite craftsmanship, and use of precious gemstones,” Vinay added. “The specialty lies in the detailed enamel work, filigree patterns, and incorporation of traditional motifs like flowers, birds, and vines.”

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While it was undoubtedly an incredible investment in time, the resultant pieces produced nonetheless proved worthy of the hard work. From intricately filigreed maangteekas (a piece centered on a woman’s forehead where her hair parts to denote her married status) and gemstone-encrusted passas (a type of bridal head ornament) to ornate majestic naths (noserings) and glittering jhumkas (traditional earrings), Heeramandi’s jewellery collection demanded attention — and received it in scores, with key scenes featuring Shri Paramani Jewels’ majestic creations in pride of place.

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In episode one, viewers were treated to a full, unfettered look of Rehana’s glittering hoard in Shahi Mahal, setting the tone of the show. Across the episodes, the glittering treasures sought to, and succeeded in stealing the spotlight; yet they did little to shift focus from the storyline, instead serving to enhance the scenes, adding depth and nuance to cast performances.

Highlighting this in an interview with film critic Sucharita Tyagi, actress Richa Chadha, who portrayed Lajjo in the series, praised the director’s dedication to authenticity. “Beautiful clothes and beautiful jewellery, all real and… Yes, all of the jewellery is real. If I could wear all of it (cumulatively) and run, then I could make another film of my own.” While no information exists as to how much the entire collection would cost, Chadha’s confirmation provides valuable insight that places its worth at tens of INR crore, with one INR crore equal to roughly USD 133,514.

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Following the release of Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar, Shri Paramani Jewels has also released the Heeramandi collection on their website, showcasing stunning pieces that provide a vivid, up-close glimpse of their jewels. Amidst the veritable buffet of jewellery pieces suffused with expert craftsmanship and imbued with precious stones, one thing remains clear: They are well worth the prices they command, fetching up to thousands in USD.

Light and shadow co-exist within the glittering diamonds and precious gemstones that adorn the bodies of Heera Mandi’s elegant tawaifs. And, in a show filled with conflict, discord, and darkness, where characters trade in secrets and sumptuousness, the work of Shri Paramani nonetheless dazzles the senses, serving as an illuminating reminder that authenticity will always be the currency of quality.

Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar is now streaming on Netflix.

(Main and featured images: Netflix)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

– Who is the designer for Heeramandi?

The set design of Heeramandi was born of director Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s own mind. The costumes were the work of renowned bridal designers Rimple-Harpreet Narula Couture, while the jewellery was designed and produced by Shri Paramani Jewels.