InterContinental Khao Yai Resort: A Hidden Gem

If you’re not local, chances are you’ve never heard of this place called Khao Yai – a quiet, picturesque town just three hours away by car from Bangkok. It’s a popular weekend escape from the capital for many Bangkok residents, who usually pick between Hua Hin, Pattaya and Khao Yai for quick getaways. But while the first two destinations are beach destinations, Khao Yai is a whole other world away – it is home to Thailand’s biggest national park and award-winning vineyards, and a hotel made from train carriages await.

The Khao Yai National Park is a haven for nature lovers with its stunning scenery that’s characterized by rolling hills, vast grasslands and dense forests and massive waterfalls. As one of Thailand’s largest national parks, Khao Yai is also sanctuary for various wildlife species – if you’re lucky you’d spot hornbills, elephants, gibbons and deer. If you’re extra lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the elusive clouded leopard.

And while Thailand isn’t the first country that comes to mind when you think of wine – nor probably the second or third – a visit to the wineries nestled at the foothills of Khao Yai may help change that perception. The unique climate of Khao Yai with its cooler temperatures, as well as diverse geography and fertile soil, has made Khao Yai an ideal place for grape cultivation. Winemakers here grow both international varietals and indigenous grapes, with a focus on crafting wines that reflect Thailand’s unique terroir. Its winemaking traditions may be young – beginning only in the 1990s, but Khao Yai is quickly emerging as a new and exciting player in Southeast Asia’s wine scene.

But the real reason we found ourselves in Khao Yai is where we chose to stay – the Intercontinental Khao Yao Resort, which incidentally, was also voted the Best Upcountry Hotel in Thailand at this year’s Travel + Leisure’s Luxury Awards. Opened in 2022, with 45 luxurious rooms and 16 suites, the resort is a destination in and of itself, located within 19 hectares of tropical landscape, surrounded with over 30,000 trees and five lakes, and built on a romantic tale of train Travel. Acclaimed architect and designer Bill Bensley is the mastermind behind the property’s unique concept – a throwback to a bygone era, the hotel’s design draws on the area’s History as a gateway for railway transportation to north-eastern Thailand during the reign of King Rama V.

Bensley found and restored 19 abandoned heritage train carriages from the 19th century and turned them into luxurious suites, a restaurant, a bar and spa. The whole hotel embraces the story of a boy who loved trains, and details are found everywhere, from the reception area that’s built like a ticketing office, to sketches and plans dotted aroud the area, and even remnants of the railway tracks that run through the property.

We arrive in the wee hours of morning and hop aboard our home for the weekend. Our train carriage may be stationery, but we’re transported away completely to another reality. The team, anticipating our early morning arrival, had pre-ordered an array of light bites to welcome us.

The train carriage may appear long and narrow but it’s surprisingly spacious inside, fitting everything from a full size shower, to a king size bed and more luxuries. The room itself is beautiful, but we find ourselves in it surprisingly little. Much of our time is spent outdoors. Each suite comes with a large outdoor Water Tank Pool and an outdoor bath, plus plenty of cushioned pool chairs for ample lounging. To maximize your time by your private pool, you can order in-room dining, which comes beautifully packed in tiffin boxes, much as food would have been delivered in the yonder days of train Travel.

We do venture out of our suite eventually to take long walks by Swan Lake and check out the Back on Track Spa, which is also located in an upcycged heritage railcar with individual treatment suites. If you bring your children along, the Planet Trekkers Kids Club, which comes with its own garden and rabbit house (yes, real bunnies!) will be a real hit for the young.

There’s plenty of activities available at the resort, guided walks and yoga, to rituals in the morning where guests receive blessings from visiting Buddhist monks. Don’t forget to “purchase” your train ticket from the train station at reception, so you can board the mini carriage and zip up and down the railway. At the pool bar, you can even book a session with the bartender and learn how to mix up a few cocktails.

On the hotel’s suggestion, we venture even further out, leaving the resort to visit GranMonte –Khao Yai is Thai for Big Mountain, and GranMonte is the Italian word for it – a winery that’s celebrated not just for its wines but its commitment to sustainable practices. The winery is family-owned, and the daughter Nikki, is the winemaker and general manager.

The visit is a wonderful experience – you first partake in a vineyard tour, where the guide will point out the different varietals and the ongoing experimentations, before bringing you indoors to explore the winemaking process, finished with a four-glass tasting flight of the Thai vineyard’s new releases. We happily pick up a few bottles as well to savour at home. The GranMonte property is also home to a farmhouse-style restaurant, VinCotto, serving up Italian fare and five chalets, or Wine Cottages, for guests who want to have the full vineyard experience.

There are a number of eateries to choose from back at the Intercontinental Khao Yai Resort. Somying’s Kitchen is the main all-day restaurant where gourmet breakfast is served daily: hot bowls of fresh noodles, eggs made any way you like, and meaty skewers grilled over charcoal are but just a corner of the buffet table. For an even more special treat, you can head over to the specialty carriages. The Tea Carriage overlooks the lake and is where you’ll find the most spectacular high tea of finger sandwiches and cakes, and hand-dripped coffee and a wide range of teas. Before dinner, head to the Papillon Bar and try one of their signature drinks with train-inspired names such as Platform and The Engine of course.

A visit to Khao Yai is not complete without a reservation at the Poirot Restaurant. Named after Agatha Christie’s famous detective, the restaurant serves up classic French fare, but once every quarter, adds a hefty dose of fantasy to the mix by hosting murder mystery dinners that are highly anticipated and often quickly booked out.

And so – train Travel, wineries, and a national park full of exotic elephants and flower fields – who would have thought you were describing Thailand? And yet, here we are, and what a dream of a place this is. If you’re booking your next trip to Thailand, we highly recommend you check out Khao Yai.