Scaling the Heights with Black Pearl Chef of the Year Winners

At their two-night collaboration, Black Pearl Chef of the Year winners TAM KWOK FUNG and WU RONG discuss the impact of these awards on Chinese cuisine.

Whenever we think about fine and refined dining, the likes of French, Italian and Japanese inevitably come up. That’s especially the case in Hong Kong, where we’re often spoilt for choice when it comes to these three cuisines. What’s surprising (we’d even say worrying), however, is that despite thousands of years of culinary tradition – the earliest known Chinese cooKBOok dates back to the Han Dynasty in 206 BCE – it seems Chinese cuisine still lags behind when it comes to the perceptions of most diners. Indeed – and doubtless a symptom of these preconceptions – it wasn’t until 2016 that the Michelin Guide arrived in China, with Shanghai chosen as its debut city for debut, while our own counterpart, the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, only launched in 2018.

But the fact is that Chinese cuisine has evolved in leaps and bounds over the past few decades, especially at the more elevated end of the spectrum. Take, for example, the recent collaboration between Chef Tam’s Seasons’ executive chef Tam Kwok Fung and Meet the Bund’s chef-owner Wu Rong. The two-night event, which took place at Wynn Palace in Macau, showcased an impressive menu combining the former’s Cantonese food with the latter’s Fujianese fare, but what made it one of the most anticipated meals of the year is the fact that both chefs from their respective one- Michelin-star restaurants had recently won Black Pearl’s Chef of the Year award.

“Chef Tam won the award in 2023, so for me to win it this year means I’ve managed to move one step closer to being as successful as he is,” says Wu, as the two chefs share a laugh. “I was honoured to be awarded it in 2023,” Tam chimes in. “What makes it so rewarding is that others in the industry actually get to vote for the winner as well, Words: JEFF YEUNG so it shows their recognition of my work, instead of just a small panel of judges. It’s important to be able to share what you’re doing, or trying to do, with other chefs and restaurateurs, but what’s even more meaningful is that they agree with, or admire, the work you’re doing. From being accepted to being admired are two different stages, and it takes an entire team to achieve this, so even if the award was for me, it wasn’t just my work alone.”

As proud as the duo are of their recent recognition by the Black Pearl guide, they’re also fully aware of the benefits these awards, including the Michelin Guide, bring to the industry. For them, it’s more than just a sense of achievement or bragging rights: these institutions are able to iNFLuence how chefs and restaurants operate, serving as platforms that encourage an exchange of ideas and therefore directly impacting the evolution of Chinese cuisine.

“I do believe that since the Michelin Guide arrived in Hong Kong and Macau more than a decade ago, it’s had a positive impact on the culinary scene in this region,” Tam explains. “These awards give restaurants a goal or direction to work towards. Those already on the list have more of a reason to continue striving, while those that aren’t will look at those that are and try to learn from them. The overall effect is that the industry as a whole is elevating itself and constantly improving.”

“I think as an industry, it’s very important to have these ranked lists, awards or star ratings,” Wu adds. “Together, they push us to keep improving ourselves, whether it’s developing new techniques, experimenting with new flavours and ingredients, or providing better service. Back in the day, we’d see Michelin-starred chefs on TV or in movies, and though we might never have imagined ourselves among them, it was still a dream to achieve something like that.

With these awards now in our country, it gives us a real opportunity to follow our dreams, and that brings us motivation to always try to do better. It gives us something to work towards and a sense of direction. Another benefit of these awards and lists is their ability to bring chefs together, so we can exchange ideas and learn from each other. Without Black Pearl, for example, maybe Tam and I would never have met. These events create a platform for more discussion and collaboration.”

Compared to the time when both chefs first began their culinary journeys and none of these awards or guides existed, it’s obvious that contemporary Chinese cuisine and even the F&B industry as a whole in this country has developed and reinvented itself in countless ways. But the question remains: how can China further promote its culinary heritage on the global stage so that one day it’s regarded as equal to French, Japanese or any other internationally acclaimed cuisine?

“Of course, the first step is always to do our best, regardless of the market we’re in,” Wu says. “For other people to want to understand our cuisine and learn about our culture, we must provide them with a good enough reason to do so, and that requires our continued effort in elevating ourselves. The second step to me is to expand overseas. Whether it’s opening a location abroad or collaborating with chefs in those countries, we should be more willing to expand our horizons and reach out. These awards we’ve talked about also help, because they give recognition that people around the world can appreciate. But really it’s just a matter of time. Chinese cuisine has such a long History and we’ve evolved so much over time, so sooner or later it’ll receive the global recognition it deserves.”